Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Welcome to the jungle...

Well, here we are....in the tiny village of Kuala Tahan, sitting at the foot of the world's oldest rain forest, the Taman Negara. I'll be honest. I never really knew too much about the place, and I nearly passed it up as a stop in my journey through Malaysia. Fortunately, I think I'll soon find out, I chose to make a pit stop here. Based on the little hiking I did today, I should be in for a treat.

But first, just a bit of a recap on the happenings of the last several days....

On Thursday morning, I set off on a 30-min taxi boat to the Paranhtian Islands. I shot over on the rickety little wood boat with a few others, two being an American girl and an English girl I had met on my travels to the Malaysian border. We arrived to find the much-hyped small island (there are two islands that comprise the Paranhtians, a "big" island and a "small" island, simply named) very quiet. Actually, the place seemed dead! It was almost as if we were going to have the place to ourselves, a big change from the very populated Thai islands I had seen over the past several weeks. It would soon become evident there were more people on this island than we initially observed, but nonetheless, it was still very quiet given the place's natural beauty. Monsoon season, we learned, is just a couple weeks away and the island closes its doors at that time.....so that would explain the aura of a "ghost town" we received upon arrival.

Day 1 on the island was a pretty simple one: we walked around the island, literally. A few hours on foot and we had nearly covered the island's perimeter. What the place has to offer is much what I've seen in the past few weeks--beautiful beach and blue/green waters--but this time, without the traffic. After barely beating the sunset, we came out of the jungle that makes up the island and arrived at "home". Home, for two or three nights anyways, was a simple little bungalow set just far enough off the beach to allow trees to surround us.... A fan room, (versus air-conditioning), cold shower, a stale smell, and a cheap price tag (15 ringit/person, or just over $4 US)--just what we are used to and what we were looking for!

Day 2 on the island is where nature took over. After hearing good things about the snorkeling off the Paranhtians, we signed up for an all-day trip that would include 4 different stops over the course of the day. We were in for a treat. The day went on, and as it did, the stops continued to get progressively better and better....

*First, we saw some amazing coral, some colorful fish, and some pesky jellyfish. Sure, cool stuff.
*Next, we investigated some more coral. This time more elaborate and more decorated, and the fish over abundant. Schools of large fish (unfortunatly I can't identify them yet) passed by, clownfish lurked (Nemo was a clownfish, FYI), and eels tucked themselves into small crevices in the coral. We're starting to get warmed up here.
*Thirdly, our driver took us to a shallow water spot named Shark Point. They weren't kidding when they called it this. We were able to see and swim near 3 good-sized (5 or 6 ft long) shallow water sharks. I'm fairly certain they were "Black Tip Sharks", but can't be 100% positive. In either case, although they are not in any way harmful, it was pretty amazing being in the water with these beasts.
*Finally, we were taken to see the turtles. And I'm not talking small, wimpy things we're used to seeing back home. These were massive sea turtles, 3 and 4 ft in diameter, that swam through the salty water. As they would come to the surface periodically, we were able to swim right up behind them. I was even trailing one close enough that allowed me to give the guy a bear hug as he made his way to the top. What a treat!

Easily, the best snorkeling I have been a part of since I've been in the water.

Day 3 was a lazy day on the beach. After two days of overcast, rain-threatening days, a day of sun was more than welcomed. I type this just moments after I read an email from my old man, explaining that Iowa just saw its first dusting of snow. I'll enjoy the warm sun and sandy beaches while I have the chance!

I made my way back to the mainland on Sunday after a quiet, but very nice, stay on the Paranhtians. Unfortunately, most of my day back on land was spent in a Malaysian police station. No, not because I was the recipient of another fist, but because three Westerners I had met and got to know quite well during my stay were victims of theft in their bungalow. A long story short, they had some encounters with the dodgy management, and it became clear they were not all that welcome at the resort. Upon coming back to their rooms on their last night, with their provided padlocks still intact and windows locked, they found their bags had been filtered through and were lacking iPods, cameras, phones, and cash. Needless to say, all fingers pointed to a staff-driven robbery. So I spent the day with them in the police station as they sorted through the police report....

Speaking of friends, I had made friends with the Malaysian man that worked at the travel shop where we had booked our boat tickets for the islands. Upon arriving back to the mainland and not having accomodation yet booked for Sunday evening, he offered to put me up for the night. Free accomodation? Why not! Turns out his friend (one of the boatmen) lived just 100 meters from the tourist shop and offered me a place to crash for the evening. I arrived to his place around 8pm and joined him and two others for some hot tea....they went on to toss me the keys to the travel shop and told me that I was free to use the Internet if I needed. Talk about hospitality! I was a bit hesitant about their level of kindness after the rough times I had experienced in the previous two weeks (a.k.a. getting robbed, getting punched), but I went along with it. I'm glad I did. They were great people and, although the place was no Holiday Inn, were happy to offer up what they had. Still, I can't wait to post pictures of the room I stayed in....a simple, airy little loft above a local shop....it was a classy joint I tell you....

Monday, I set off solo on the Jungle Railway, a trainline that runs through the jungle and makes its way to Jerantut, the jumping off point to enter the National Park.

Today, I took a 3 hr boat ride into the jungle and arrived in Kuala Tehan (across the river from the park boundaries) around Noon. I managed about a 6 -7 kilometer hike today in effort to warm up for what is to come tomorrow and Thursday.... I set off around 9am tomorrow, with two others I met on my boat this morning, for a trek a little deeper into the jungle's thickness. We will trek about 11 or 12 kilometers and hopefully arrive to our destination around 4 or 5pm. Our destination? A basic, electricity-free hide (as it is called) , a basic shack that sits above a man-made salt lick. The salt lick is meant to attract all sort of different wildlife at night, and hopefully we'll be able to see what nature throws at us tomorrow night. Rats and tamirs are apparently the most abundant creatures we will see, but there should be wild deer, monkeys, and the occasional elephant (although not likely). I've been told that the sounds you hear as you go to sleep make for quite an interesting evening.... I will hike back the 11 or 12 km on Thursday and eventually make my way out of the park.

That's what's new on my end, everyone! Sorry, I am not able to upload any pictures at this time....the Internet is painfully slow here but ironically quite expensive. Once I make it to Kuala Lumpur, the country's capital, in a few days, I should be able to get some images up on the blog.

Until then, I hope you all are enjoying the snow and the Iowa State losses. Sounds like nothing changes!

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Made it to Malaysia!

Real quick note here, folks. The internet here is crawling, and I have sleep to catch...

I am in Malaysia right now, in the small town of Kuala Besut. This place is more or less a port for the Perenthian Islands, where I am headed in the morning. Currently, it is 10:30pm, and here in Malaysia we are now 13 hrs ahead of Iowa time, instead of 12.

It's been a long 24+ hrs.....
*I left on a night ferry off the island of Koh Tao last night around 9pm
*Arrived on the mainland around 5am this morning
*Hopped a bus around 6:30am
*Switched to another bus around 2pm
*Arrived at the Malaysia border around 4pm
*Crossed the border (literally walked across the border after our bus left us a good quarter mile from Malaysia...strange) with two girls who were en route to Malaysia as well
*Made it through customs and split a taxi with the girls (2hrs) from the border to where we sleep tonight

It's been about 24 hours of commuting, and I am spent. Tomorrow, we head to the Perhentian Islands, about 20 km off the coast of Malaysia. White sands and postcard sunsets await, so I better go rest up! Internet may not be available on the island, so stayed tuned for a few days, and I'll work to get some pictures up when I'm back on land....

Monday, October 20, 2008

Certified to swim with the fishies....

It's official. I'm an open-water diver!

Finished my course yesterday with two dives at 18 meters. What a rush it is being down there....it really blows you away. I never thought it could be as relaxing as was under water. We were swimming through schools of small fish, seeing incredible colors in both the fish and the coral as we passed. Unbelievable! There was a chance that we could see some whale sharks at one of the dive sites as they had been spotted just earlier in the week, but no luck.

It's inevitable that, if I do make it to Bali in the next month (which I'm planning), I will certainly take the time to get in the water there. Oh, just another hobby that has put its paws around my neck...

Either today or tomorrow, I'll be heading south and making my way to the neighboring country of Malaysia. It should be about a 24-hour trip (boat+bus+bus) to Kuala Lumpur, the capital. Can't wait for that nice, little trip!!

Morning of the final dive














Getting all geared up before the big dive


Dives complete!



















My diving resort on Koh Tao














And last but not least, I would be holding out if I didn't share this next little bit with you all. Let's just say this: I've gotten a couple hints that it's my time to leave the Thai islands...first getting robbed in Koh Phangan, now getting punched in Koh Tao? Oh the memories I'll have from this trip. I guess we'll learn that local Thai men don't carry the appreciation for "sarcasm" quite like we do in the States. Sooo, as a result, I earned my second black eye ever (my nephew Matthew gave me my first when he was 8). Well, that'll teach me! It's okay, Mom, I'm fine. Your little boy can take a good smackin'. Even the boys from Wales I was with were impressed with my compusure.

As always, however, I'll maintain my stance as a lover and never a fighter...

So, from Thailand, possibly the last post from within the borders of this country, I'm signing off. Happy trails from Rocky Balboa!


Saturday, October 18, 2008

Underworld World, Day 3

If this trip would have one common theme, it would revolve around the idea of stepping up my confidence and conquering some of the fears and/or reservations I have had in my life....

I've never been good with heights, so I tried rock climbing. I am now digging it completely and don't seem to have any beef in dealing with the heights as I scale a rock tower. Similarly, although I can swim and have even worked as a lifeguard, I'd never dreamed I would have the guts to go down deep into the ocean and breathe by way of steel cylinder and narrow tube.

Well, today was a big day. My dive group went down for two dives of 12 meters today, spending much of the time under water performing skill assessments and drills. We did manage some swim time, but the current we were dealing with around the deep-water coral was, apparently, some of the worst Kho Tao has had in some time. Why not start with the toughest conditions, right? The day was great, and, although the visibility wasn't the best, we did manage to have enough to keep our eyes wandering around the sea floor.

Tomorrow will be the fun day, however. We'll finish our techniques/drills in the morning, and we will finish in the afternoon with some exploratory diving 18 meters deep in the Bay of Thailand. Can't wait!

On a completely, unrelated note....I can't seem to ever get away from the state of Iowa! In 2004, when I studied in Ireland, I can recall watching the CNN World network as they covered the Iowa Caucuses. Well, four and a half years later, as I track yet another election, Iowa comes into the picture again. I was in my room during my lunch break today from our class and decided to catch up on some news. I flipped on the CNN World network, yet again, and amid all the serious election coverage, they paused to touch on a more humerous subject. Apparently there are these two children, a 4-yr old and a 2-yr old, who have been discussing politics and the elections over their morning cereal/yogurt for the past few weeks. One supported Obama and the other McCain, and the camera footage captured them debating and conversing about their candidates. And, of course, where were the two kids from? Iowa, of course. The exact city in the Hawkeye State wasn't mentioned, however. But, I must admit, it was quite strange to be sitting in my hotel room on a small island off the coast of Thailand and seeing news footage from a Des Moines television station.

It's a small world....

Friday, October 17, 2008

Underwater World, Day 2

If this whole SCUBA diving bit catches on like rock climbing did, I'm in for an expensive, hobby-filled life ahead.....

After a brief afternoon in the classroom yesterday and some more preparation from the textbook this morning, we took to the pool for some basic skills this afternoon. I never thought that I could be quite so comfortable underwater, but after spending all afternoon in the water, 3 hours of which were spent in the 12 ft water without coming back to the surface, I think I've become more adapted than I could have ever imagined.

Tomorrow, we spend one last morning in the classroom before taking to the waters of the Gulf of Thailand tomorrow afternoon. We'll do two dives down around 12 meters (in/around 36 feet) and that's when the fun should begin. Sunday (Day 4) will be capped off with the deepest dive (18 meters) prior to receive my open-water certification. And then, I'm officially a diver!

The laid-back atmosphere of Kho Tao has been great, and I can already tell it will be one of those places that will be difficult to part with when the time comes.....

Until then, I'm busy being a student again. I even have homework tonight, so I better wrap this up and get back to my textbook!

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Oh, the ups and downs of the travel life....

Today is Thursday, October 16, 2008, and I am happy to say that I am officially off of the island of Koh Phangan and have moved up to the smaller, more "chilled out" Koh Tao. It will be a nice, relaxing change from the craziness that was Koh Phangan...but here's a quick summary of the recent week....

Arriving on the island on Friday (10/10/08) was nearly like coming back to college after a long summer break away from your friends...dozens, it seemed, of travelers I had met in the previous 2 1/2 months all seemed to congregate on one island for one reason: the Full Moon. And with each passing day leading up to the big day (10/14/08), it was surreal to see the mounting familiar faces keep adding up...

The island was larger than any I've been on--apparently it is nearly 200 square kilometers in area. However, the majority of the "action" happens in and around Haad Rin, a small peninsula on the island's southeastern corner. That's where the backpackers gather, that's where the reunions happen, and that's where the Full Moon party is held each month.

Other than meeting up with old friends, I managed a day of exploration with an Englishman I had met in Halong Bay, Vietnam, some 30+ days ago. The two of us set off on motorbikes and crusied the hilly roads that lined the coast. I was on the edge of my seat as I gripped the brakes down every hill....this definitely was no flat island.....

We made our way to our destination in the middle of the island, a path that would ascend to the island's highest point some 650 meters above the rest of the island. After about 15 minutes of gentle path climbing, we came to a sign which "seemed" to point us up a running creek lined with massive boulders. So, like a bunch of little boys in a dirt pile, we rolled up our sleeves and were ready to get our hands dirty exploring. Soon enough, we were an hour and a half into a one-way adventure, navigating our way up a creek, climbing rocks, sliding on mossy surfaces, and even seeing numerous scorpions. Now realizing we were nowhere near the "path" anymore that was to be our guiding light, we swallowed our pride and began to make our way back down the path we had just come, rather than find ourselves lost in the thickness of the jungle. It was mid-afternoon when the two of us returned to our starting point, the origin of our 3-hour journey that left us nowhere close to the top as planned.

But there was hope. We soon discovered the sign we had missed the first time through, managed to get back on path, and eventually made the steep one-hour ascent to the top of the mountain. The view from the top made it all the worthwhile, but we didn't stay too long to enjoy it as sunset was soon approaching, thanks to our earlier detour that consumed most of our day. Oh, to be a watching creature and to see us blow right past that sign the first time around... It had to be like an old Looney Tunes cartoon when the road runner turns the arrow around and sends the coyote down to a rough descent. Nonetheless, we made an adventure out of the day and got to know the jungle quite well!

And then there was this little gathering on the beach that evening, when some 10,000+ foreigners come to have a few drinks and celebrate life...errr...or something like that. Or maybe its when mobs of local Thai theives perfect their skills on young, careless travelers? Well, this trip is about exploring new places and meeting new people, but it's also about working your way through the tough times when everything doesn't go as planned.

I wasn't the only one who fell victim to theft this particular evening. Actually, I don't know too many people I spoke with that weren't in someway victim to some sort of theft. The bummer of it all was that just 12 hours before the big gathering, I had bought a new, small digital camera to serve as my memory-keeper for the rest of the trip in those times when I didn't want to risk taking out my bigger, more expensive camera. Nonetheless, my new purchase was still a very nice little camera! Well, a few hours into the evening, I was camera-less and cash-less...all in all, the evening probably cost me around $300 between the two. Not the preferred way to end my stay on the island, but that's the way it ended. But if there is one quality that I have and that I will forever hold on to, it's to make the most of a crappy situation. It's never fun to use the cliche "It could've been worse...", but in a time like this, it's the one and only way to shake it off and move on. And I have.

So here I am in Koh Tao, moving onto my next adventure quickly and forgetting about my last. I've signed up for a 4-day SCUBA diving course and, come this time Sunday, I will be officially certified to go diving in depths up to about 60 feet. Koh Tao is one of the most popular places in the world to get certification, second only to a spot off the coast of Australia. I'm looking forward to seeing what the world has to offer deep in the ocean....

Yes, there's definitely some ups and downs of travel. But I've realized that once you shake off the short term effects of those down-in-the-dumps moments, you can get back to enjoying those things that this place really has to offer.

Only a few pics down below.... The few pictures I did have from the island and the big party went away when my camera was snagged. So until next time, enjoy what I have below and I'll work to put together some memories in the days to come. Wish me luck in the water tomorrow!

Maya Bay in Ko Phi Phi, last days in Ko Phi Phi














My little bungalow on Railey Beach, last stay before heading to the east coast and Ko Phangan














Approaching storm in Koh Phangan. This was from the beach, about 40 ft from my bungalow....


















View from the top of our hike on Koh Phangan!

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Weekend Update from Koh Phangan

It's official: I've arrived on Thailand's east coast as of Friday, 7pm local time. I nearly resorted to aggressive force to kick myself out of the paradise island of Phi Phi, but fortunately I was able to sneak out before I was sucked in any longer.

In recent days, I have found myself flying through my small bottle of Neosporin thanks to numerous cuts and scratches from the higher-than-normal amounts of rock climbing that I have been doing....

First, on Tuesday, I spent the day climbing some 150 or 175 feet up a limestone rock face with a local Thai guide. The rope courses here are some of the best in the world, I've been told, and the view from the top of the climbs make all one's work worth the while. You literally peer down and see the island in its entirety. Incredible.

Then, after leaving Phi Phi on Wednesday, I spent two evenings on Railey Beach, a isolated spot on the mainland of Thailand's west coast reachable only by boat. Big sis and I did a day trip there during her visit, but I was destined to get back for a little more adventure as the climbing is said to be even better than Phi Phi's. Again I spent a day with a local guide and managed several different courses. I'm still at the amateur level, but I'm really starting to enjoy these climbs!! John Cutler, if you're reading this, can't wait to hit the ropes with you!

I said goodbye to the west coast yesterday (Friday) morning and made the 10-hour commute to the island of Koh Phangan, home of the infamous Full Moon Party. Some 10,000 travelers are said to gather for the little "get together" each month, so I'm looking forward to running into old friends that I have met earlier in my travels. I've been here less than 24 hours, and it's already happened. Carleen, I found our Canadian friends on the beach today and have their email address for you!

And finally, the biggest news thus far on my trip and maybe the news least anticipated by my mother...... I have extended my trip an extra month! It's an idea I've been tossing around for several weeks now, but today, I pulled the trigger, paid the $200 change fee, and booked my flight home on November 22nd. I'm extremely fortunate to have seen all the places I have already seen, but I realized that it may be some time before I make it back this way. So, knowing that, I want to pack in some more! Once I leave Thailand around the 20th or so of October, I plan to head south to Malaysia for a couple weeks, and then I hope to make it into Indonesia to see Bali, among others.

Above all, though, I should say that I'm so much looking forward to getting home to see all my family and friends. And I will be home for Thanksgiving....so Mom, have a place setting saved for me!

I don't have too many new photos, but hopefully in the days to come I'll manage to sneak in some shots and get them on the blog. In the meantime, take care everyone and we'll talk soon.

P.S. Anyone have any suggestions on how to do a write-in vote for this little election we're having soon?

Monday, October 6, 2008

'Tis funny how small our world is...

I often doubted myself when I fathomed the idea of running into too many Midwesterners on my little tour of SE Asia, let alone someone from Des Moines. Well....

It was late in the evening, say around 11:30p (don't worry, Ma, I was in bed by 12) on Saturday. I was at a local establishment on the beach here in Ko Phi Phi, watching a fireshow (local Thais spinning fiery sticks around) when I heard some American accents at the table behind me. Of course I opened up my mouth, and they immediately recognized my American tone as well. One of the women asked where I was from.....and I replied with "Iowa", almost certain to get some questions in return like: "Ohio?" or maybe something to the effect of "Oh Iowa, is that where the potatoes are?" The girl, Meg, nearly turned white with doubt when she heard my response. Take that a step further when I said "Des Moines." Sure enough, she was born in Des Moines, went to high school at Dowling, but then moved to California for college and life. We carried on for a brief conversation, discussed some "Iowa-only" topics like ISU/IA football, the state fair, and the like. I've never felt so "at home" during my trip!

Was it really possible that there may be someone else in Thailand from my home city some 9,000 miles from my current position in Andaman Bay? And did I actually believe that, once big sis left on Friday, I was really the only Iowan on this little island somewhere off the coast of Thailand?

Indeed, 'tis funny how small our world is....

Sunday, October 5, 2008

Pinch me.

It's tough to know where to begin. I find myself dropped into a land that is far too beautiful for my words to do it justice, so I will sum up my last week with one word:

Wow.

I write today from Ko Phi Phi, arguably one of the most beautiful stops on my trip. And the days leading up to today weren't all that bad either.

Big sis Carleen, her boyfriend RJ, and I met in Bangkok on Monday, preparing ourselves for what was hyped up to be a great 5 days together in the islands. I think we nailed it.

Tuesday we spent some time on Railey, a reach-by-boat-only destination just a 30-minute longtail boat ride from Ao Nang, where we stayed all week. We managed to log some quality beach time, coupled with some exploration on surrounding rock formations. I found a new love in rock climbing here--the jagged limestone formations that jut out from the water make for some adrenaline-pumping fun as you scale upwards. No ropes, no harnesses. Just you, the rock, and the safety net of the water below. All 3 of us managed to find ourselves with some nice cuts on our feet and hands as a result of our climbing adventures....

Wednesday we joined a tour with 12 or so others, visiting 4 islands in the surrounding waters. The scenery was breathtaking. I think there were times when I had to pick up my bottom jaw off the floor. White sands, blue/green waters, incredible snorkeling, and more limestone cliffs for me to climb--can I ask for much more?

Thursday we chartered our very own longtail boat, so exploring the waters and the surrounding islands was left all for the 3 of us and our accomodating driver. We managed to find one small island (Buddha Island) with a beach, surrounding cliffs, and not a single other soul. Talk about another of those infamous "pinch me" moments. They seem to be happening quite frequently down here in the islands....

Friday we again chartered a boat and set off on the 2-hour sea journey to Ko Phi Phi. For a guy who hasn't done a lot of snorkeling in his day, I think I have been spoiled on this trip. We spent a considerable portion of the day in the water, peering down through the clear waters some 40 or 50 feet down to the floor of the sea. Incredible! Plenty of colorful marine life, starfish, coral, and even a barracuda that big sis and I came across....

But all good things must come to an end, and Car and RJ set off back to the mainland on Friday afternoon. I, however, a castaway with a backpack, stayed on Ko Phi Phi island, and it is here where I've spent the last 48 hours.

And just like it has happened throughout the trip, I have bumped into familiar faces here in Phi Phi, those of friends that I had met earlier in my trip. It's a small world, this place.

So in a nutshell, that's the last week of my life. Time has definitely slowed down, I've noticed now. I am officially on "island time," never really knowing the time, the day, or the date. The sun has been out in full force, allowing my tan to continue to develop quite nicely. I think I'll manage a couple more days here, and then I will set off to the east coast and wind my trip down on the islands there.

Enjoy the photos, everyone. Sis/RJ, I had a great time with you guys!!

1) Fom rags to riches! Big sis's idea of accomodation is different than mine as a backpacker!
2) On Railey beach.
3) Monkey chowing down on Railey (the beach vendors give them the leftovers at day's end)
4,5) Island tour on Tuesday.
6) Buddha Island, our peaceful little place we discovered on Thursday. Not a soul around!
7) Sea urchin
8) Chicken Island....at low tide, this beach appears every day, connecting three islands.
9-10) My new love, climbing stuff!
11-12) Enjoying the view from our boat
13-15) The islands by night time...
16) These little guys are everywhere!
17) One of those "pinch me" moments
18) Another one of those moments...
19) View of Ko Phi Phi island from above