Thursday, November 20, 2008

"Ain't nothin' gonna break my stride...

...nodoby's gonna slow me down, oh no, I got to keep on moving...." Come on, you know the lyrics, sing along!

Well, I committed those words to serve as my motto for the last days of my trip. Come hell or high water....errr, flu in this particular situation....I was bound to pack in a little more Bali before my trip across the big pond on Saturday.

And I did.

About 36 hours after coming down with the bug and 9 or 10 liters of water later, I was feeling like a champion once again. For anyone that believes in modern medicine to cure your everyday cold/flu, keep on believing. I'm sure perscription drugs have a purpose. But I have and will forever stick with the Cole Kopacek home remedy of "flushing out the system": start drinking water, more than you feel is physically possible by one human being, and don't stop drinking. Magically, in 48 hours or less, your body is working like a greased machine once again.

In my case, Tuesday noon-ish is when I felt purified once again and fully capable to trek on and complete this journey. Time, unfortunately, wasn't going to allow me to climb the volcano I had hoped to see, but hey, there's plenty of Bali to keep me busy otherwise. So, I set off on my $3/day moto-bike and headed to the countryside.

My first stop was the Besikah temple, the island's largest and most significant temple.





















It sits high in the hills. More specifically, it rests midway up the island's highest point (a once powerful volcano). The weather was dreary, so visibility didn't allow to actually see the booming figure above, but seeing the temple was still quite impressive. Local Balinese roamed around in traditional dress, taking part in a daily ritual/ceremony that is common to the Hindhu religion.

As I continued to cut through the country, I managed to stumble on an ongoing soccer match between some, from what I learned, local amateur teams.




















No, the quality of the playing fields aren't what most would call "up to par", but the fan support and enthusiasm in the air was evidence that everyone involved was quite satisfied with what they were provided. Like most places I have gone in Bali, where not many Westerners are present, I was approached by a young man (my age or so) who was happy to introduce himself, start a conversation with the common opener "Where you come from?", and practice his English a bit. These Balinese folk are a friendly one...you have to give them that!

As darkness began to fall, I had to make a quick call. Dive or no dive? Feeling back at 100% again and wanting to squeeze in one more session underwater (can you tell I'm addicted?), I made a quick reservation in Tulamben (on the island's NE side) online and started my journey around 7:30pm.

I was told the drive could take 2 or 2 1/2 hrs from my current location. Well, that would be under "good" conditions. Factor in complete darkness, no knowledge of the road system other than a worn, barely legible, basic map, and pissing down rain....and, well, it made for quite the journey. Cruising up and down winding roads through the jungling mountains stretched for about 3 1/2 hours. Let's just say the road signs aren't as "clear" as they would be in the Western world. When in doubt, go straight. That's the methodology I've learned to adapt. In most cases, it works. But, as I found out on Tuesday night, it is not foolproof.

I arrived at the dive resort at 11:15pm, still unaware of how I actually found the place. But what a nice little reward I had upon arriving.





















Originally, the price is $30/night (very expensive by Balinese and definitely backpacker standards), but being it is slow season, I was able to pre-book the place at a negotiated $15/night.

TV....DVD player....air conditioning...? The high-pressure, hot shower was my personal favorite. I haven't seen these kind of luxuries since big sis treated me to them in early October.

The dive the next morning was incredible.




















Just off shore, about 20-25 meters in depth, sits the USS LIberty, a cargo ship that was sunk by a Japanese submarine during WWII. Today, it is completed coralized and taken over by large and small underwater creatures. Well worth the challenging trip the evening before!

After diving, I headed back through the country, first finding myself surrounded with a new type of terrain, one that is still evidence of the volcanic eruption here years ago.


The fishing village where the dive site was located, Tulamben, sits on the side of the volcano most devasted by the eruption. Not sure on this without doing my research, but I think it was 50-60 years ago. To see the desert-like fields that are still evidence of the disaster was very interesting.

And soon, I was back in lush fields and valleys, surrounded by rice terraces/paddies dotting the countryside. The photos don't do the place justice. Incredible.
















































After a good day's drive, I arrived in Ubud, a stop I made previously last week. I needed to pick up a few souvenirs, and this is the shopping mecca of Bali.

Ubud, also, is a place where I really got to feel at home in Bali. I meant to stay for a few hours, do some shopping, and jet. But after being at the market, hearing some of the stories behind the vendors pushing their products, and truly feeling the welcome, I ended up staying the night last night (Wed). And I'm glad I did.

After inquiring to a local man about the location of a much needed toilet, I soon found myself going to a restaurant he happily recommended next door, where I had some amazing Gasi Noreng (spelling?). The Balinese dish consists of rice and vegetables, topped with chicken satay, egg, and fresh shrimp/prawn. Mmm.















Shortly after, I ended up buying an event ticket off the same guy who recommended the restaurant....the event? An event very special to Bali, the 'kacheek' dance.














A photo cannot begin to describe this event. Half naked men dancing around chanting "Ka-Ka-CHEEK, Ka-Ka-CHEEK!", traditionally-dressed women prancing around candles, dragon characters swooping in for attacks, and a man on a horse dancing on red-hot coconut shells that had been set afire. Again, nothing I planned to see in Ubud, but something I walked right into and was pleased to have done so....

I cruised back into Kuta this morning, my home base close the airport on the island's south coast.

Today (Thursday) being my last day in Bali before my red-eye flights to Singapore then Bangkok, I decided to end things properly. On the beach. But it was a productive day....I learned to surf. I booked a beginner's course through a local surf school and took a 3-hour course on how to ride the waves. And for those of you wondering, yes, I got up! Bali is known for the surf, so I am glad to say that I spent my last day here in Bali doing as the Balinese do....


I noticed today that, even on the beach, as with everywhere in the Hindhu island of Bali, small arrangements in homemade palm-leaf baskets can be seen wherever you look. These "offerings" can consist of small food articles, greenery, incense, and flowers....I've even seen cigarettes in them. Its the Hindhu way of offering pleasure to the gods and demons alike. And they are put out at doorsteps, on the street, the beach, and/or wherever every morning....

And that's a wrap. The trip, basically is concluded! I'll spend the wee hours of the evening on a plane and arrive in Bangkok around Noon tomorrow. After an afternoon and evening in the hustle and bustle of the big city, I'll head to the airport around 3am on Saturday to catch the big flight home!

Stay tuned for one final post on Sunday or Monday. I'll try to get all deep and put my final thoughts into this little trip I've taken on. It's been a good ride....and I look forward to milking my final hours over here.

Off I go to pack for my 12:30am flight that is now just 5 1/2 hours away....talk to you on Sun/Mon!

4 comments:

Colette said...

Travel safe, bro - see you soon!! Cant wait to see all your pix and hear all of the stories that weren't posted here!! :)
Love, Coe and fam

Anonymous said...

what a experience you've had--would make one want to do the same--altho I don't know about the scuba part of it. The place you stayed in looked nice-looked like home--Don't get any ideas. hahha. We are all anxious to see you--have a safe flight and see you in a short time- love mom

Kellie said...

Have a safe return home. It's really cold here so be prepared! :)

Anonymous said...

Can you believe this was 3 months ago already???? Aaaah...to be back in Bali right now....